Electrical symbols for floor plans: the standard icons
An electrical floor plan uses standardised symbols to represent each piece of equipment universally. This guide covers the 99 most common symbols out of the 370+ available in Planelico, organised by category, with usage notes, the AS/NZS 3000 rules that apply, and practical installation tips.
Why use standardised electrical symbols?
Standardised electrical symbols ensure that a floor plan can be read and understood by any electrician, builder or designer — regardless of who drew it. The international reference is IEC 60617, which the Australian and New Zealand drawing conventions are based on. Planelico's library follows it.
A plan without standard symbols (hand-drawn or text-only) is not sufficient for:
- Sending a brief to an electrician
- Reviewing the design with a builder or designer
- Accurate quoting of electrical work
- Technical records of the home (resale, insurance claim, future renovation)
Index: find a symbol by the name you searched for
A symbol is rarely looked up under its formal name. People search for "power point symbol floor plan", "GPO symbol" or "weatherproof outlet symbol" — not for the wording printed in the standard. This index starts from the common phrasings and points to the matching symbol entry below.
Where an AS/NZS 3000 requirement applies to a symbol, it is called out in a green AS/NZS 3000 note. The wider picture is in the AS/NZS 3000 electrical plan guide.
Contents — jump to a category
Power — outlets & circuits
Power points and dedicated circuits make up the bulk of a home installation. AS/NZS 3000 sets no minimum number per room — provision is a design decision — but circuits supplying power points need 30 mA RCD protection, and high-draw appliances such as cooktops and ovens get circuits of their own.
Power point (10 A)
Standard 10 A socket-outlet, called a power point or GPO. The most common symbol on a home plan — lamps, TV, small appliances.
AS/NZS 3000 · AS/NZS 3000 sets no minimum number per room: provision is a design decision. Circuits supplying power points need 30 mA RCD protection in a home (clause 2.6.3.3.1). Table C9 (informative) counts each power point as 1 A when loading a circuit — about 20 on a 20 A circuit.
Tip · Plan generously. An extra power point at rough-in costs almost nothing; adding one afterwards means cutting into a finished wall.
Double power point
Two 10 A socket-outlets on one plate — the default choice in most rooms.
Tip · Bedsides, behind the TV, either side of a kitchen bench, and at a desk: anywhere a power board would otherwise end up. It counts as two points when loading a circuit.
Triple power point
Three outlets in one box. Useful in media corners, home offices and kitchens.
Tip · Remember the total load is still limited by the circuit, not the number of outlets. Mixing a high-draw appliance with several small loads is a reason for a dedicated circuit.
Dedicated appliance outlet
Power point or fixed connection on its own circuit, for an appliance that should not share a general power circuit.
AS/NZS 3000 · Appendix C of AS/NZS 3000 suggests a separate circuit for any appliance rated above 20 A per phase. Fixed-wired appliances may also need a local isolating switch.
Cooktop connection
Fixed connection for an electric cooktop or upright cooker, shown below and to one side of the appliance.
AS/NZS 3000 · A dedicated circuit, with a switch cutting all active conductors near the cooktop, visible and accessible, but not on it (clause 4.7.1). In New Zealand, a freestanding cooking appliance connects through a socket-outlet or an installation coupler (clause 4.7.2).
Power point on a dedicated circuit
A power point given its own circuit in the switchboard, rather than sharing the general power circuit.
Tip · Worth doing for a freezer: an unrelated fault elsewhere in the house then cannot trip the circuit keeping it cold.
Fixed wiring outlet
Wall plate for hard-wiring fixed equipment with no visible plug — water heater, heated towel rail, built-in oven.
Tip · Pair it with a means of isolation: AS/NZS 3000 asks for a lockable isolating switch beside a fixed-wired water heater (clause 4.8.2.3).
Surface wiring outlet
Surface-mounted outlet, typically around 1.8 m, feeding a rangehood, wall light or motorised blind.
Tip · For a rangehood, a power point in the cupboard above is usually better than a hard-wired plate — it makes replacing the appliance far easier.
High-level power point
Power point set above worktop or furniture height — behind a wall-mounted TV, above a desk or over a kitchen worktop.
Tip · Align the outlet to a specific piece of furniture. Note the exact height directly on your Planelico plan (using the "Note" field).
Weatherproof power point
IP-rated power point for outdoors, garages, alfresco areas and other exposed positions.
AS/NZS 3000 · Outdoors, choose IP33 at least where the outlet is exposed to the weather (clause 4.1.3). In bathrooms, power points are not allowed in zones 0 and 1 and are restricted in zone 2 — a shaver outlet, for example.
High-level weatherproof power point
IP-rated power point mounted clear of the ground — under a soffit, on a garage wall, or beside an outbuilding door.
Built-in oven supply
Supply point for a built-in oven, usually a fixed connection or a power point in the adjacent cabinet.
AS/NZS 3000 · Give the oven and the cooktop their own circuits. Built-in ovens are not covered by the cooktop switch rule of clause 4.7.1.
Freezer power point
Power point serving a fridge or freezer, ideally on its own circuit so unrelated tripping cannot spoil the contents.
Tip · Stick a visible label on the wall plate ("FREEZER — DO NOT UNPLUG"). Prevents half of incidents.
Dishwasher supply
Power point for a dishwasher, ideally reachable without pulling the appliance out.
Cooktop supply
Supply point for an electric or induction cooktop, hard-wired on its own circuit.
Washing machine supply
Power point for a washing machine or dryer, reachable without moving the appliance.
AS/NZS 3000 · Served from a general power circuit or its own circuit depending on the load. Circuits supplying power points need 30 mA RCD protection in a home (clause 2.6.3.3.1).
USB power point
Power point combining 10 A outlets with integrated USB-A or USB-C charging.
Tip · Useful at bedsides and desks, but the USB module dates faster than the outlet. Somewhere you can reach easily is a better bet than somewhere behind furniture.
Lighting
Lighting symbols show where each fitting goes; the wiring back to its switch is drawn separately as a connection line. Home lighting circuits are usually 10 A, about 20 points each, and at least two of them are shared between RCDs.
Ceiling lighting point
Fixed lighting position on the ceiling. The wiring to its switch is shown separately as a connection line.
AS/NZS 3000 · Lighting circuits are usually 10 A on 1.5 mm², about 20 points each with the Table C9 method. Lighting circuits need 30 mA RCD protection in a home, and lighting is shared between RCDs (clause 2.6.2.4).
Recessed downlight
Recessed LED downlight, usually placed in runs or grids.
AS/NZS 3000 · Recessed luminaires carry an insulation classification and need clearances from building elements and thermal insulation (clause 4.5.2.3). Check the rating before insulation goes in.
Tip · Fire-rated downlights are needed where they penetrate a fire-resisting ceiling — between floors, or below a loft. Check that before setting out the grid.
Wall light
Wall-mounted light fitting, often beside a bed, a mirror or an external door.
Tip · Bedside sconces should be controlled by a switch at hand-height (60-70 cm), independent from the main ceiling light.
Ceiling fan
Ceiling fan, with or without an integrated light, controlled by a wall switch or a remote receiver.
Tip · Position: dead center of the room. Minimum blade clearance: 2,30 m from the floor.
LED strip
LED tape with its driver, usually in a cove, under a cabinet or behind a mirror.
Tip · Mark the driver position, not just the tape. It needs ventilation, access for replacement, and a run short enough to avoid voltage drop along the tape.
Switching
Switches control lighting circuits and some fixed equipment. A light operated from two positions needs two-way switching; from three or more, add intermediate switches or use smart controls. The Wiring Rules set no mounting height: place switches where the room is actually used.
One-way switch
Single switch controlling one lighting point or group.
AS/NZS 3000 · The Wiring Rules set no mounting height; around 1,000 to 1,100 mm above the floor is common, and accessible-design standards give ranges. Leave clearance from the door frame so the plate is reachable with the door open.
Two-gang switch
Two switches in one plate, each controlling a separate lighting group.
Tip · Great in kitchens to separate general lighting from worktop lighting.
Two-way switch
Switch wired so a light can be operated from two positions.
AS/NZS 3000 · The standard arrangement for a hallway with two entrances, a bedroom with a door and bedside control, and a staircase with a switch at the top and bottom.
Tip · On your Planelico plan, draw a connection between both switches and the light to visualise the wiring.
Push-button switch
Retractive switch that returns to its position — used with impulse relays, doorbells and some smart dimmers.
Tip · Elegant solution for long hallways or multi-landing stairs: a button at each entry, one impulse relay at the panel.
Dimmer switch
Switch allowing the light level to be varied.
Tip · Check the dimmer is rated for the LED load and listed as compatible with the lamps. A mismatch is the usual cause of flicker and buzz.
Timer switch
Switch that turns the light off automatically after a set delay. Common in hallways, stairwells and communal areas.
Switch with indicator
Switch with a neon or LED indicator showing the circuit state — useful where the load is out of sight.
Tip · Bedside or dark hallway: pilot ON when OFF = locate the switch. To signal a running device: pilot ON when ON.
Two-gang switch with indicator
Two indicated switches in one plate, for loads you cannot see from the switch position.
Push button with indicator
Retractive switch with an indicator, typically used with an impulse relay.
Impulse relay (latching relay)
Relay switched by retractive push buttons, letting one light be controlled from many positions without a chain of two-way and intermediate switches.
Tip · Worth it from about four control positions. Below that, two-way and intermediate switching is simpler to wire and to fault-find.
Double-pole switch
Switch breaking both active and neutral — used to isolate fixed appliances such as water heaters.
Doorbell
Bell or chime with its push and transformer, wired or wireless.
Intermediate switch
Switch inserted between two two-way switches so a light can be controlled from three or more positions.
AS/NZS 3000 · Both strappers from the upstream two-way switch pass through the intermediate, which either swaps them or does not. Add as many intermediates as you need between the two end switches.
Tip · Beyond 3 control points, compare with a smart switch or relay and push buttons: usually less cable.
Ventilation boost switch
Local control raising the ventilation unit to its boost rate.
AS/NZS 3000 · The control should boost the unit, not switch it off: continuous ventilation is expected to run continuously.
Tip · Place it near the cooktop, not at the kitchen entrance: cooking is when you need it.
Blind / roller shutter switch
Up-stop-down control for a motorised blind or roller shutter.
Tip · Choose momentary (impulse) switches if you plan centralised or smart control later: maintained-position switches complicate both.
Central shutter control
Single control operating several shutters or blinds together.
Tip · The winning combo: individual control at each window + one central at the entrance and one at bedside. Close everything when leaving, open everything on waking.
Presence detector (lighting)
Detector switching lighting automatically, common in hallways, WCs and utility rooms.
Tip · In WCs and pantries, choose a presence detector (high sensitivity) rather than a motion detector: it keeps the light on even when you sit still.
Photocell switch
Daylight-sensing switch bringing external lighting on at dusk.
Tip · Pair twilight + time clock: on at dusk, off at 11 pm — the best compromise between a welcoming home and the bill.
Boxes & connections
Junction boxes, ceiling connection points and containment distribute and connect circuits inside walls, floors and ceilings. Invisible once the work is finished, they still belong on the plan, with connections kept accessible.
Junction box
Connection point where circuit conductors are joined inside a wall, floor void or ceiling space.
AS/NZS 3000 · Keep connections accessible for inspection and testing, and mark their position on the plan.
Ceiling connection point
Ceiling connection point for a light fitting or ceiling fan.
AS/NZS 3000 · The fixing must carry the weight of the intended fitting. Heavy pendants and ceiling fans need a fixing back to the joist or a purpose-made brace, not just the plasterboard.
Tip · Even in a downlit ceiling, keep a central connection point. The day someone wants a pendant over the table, the provision is already there.
Wall light connection point
Connection point for a wall-mounted fitting.
AS/NZS 3000 · In a bathroom, the zone the fitting sits in sets the minimum IP rating and whether extra-low voltage is required. Check the zone before choosing the fitting.
Weatherproof junction box
IP-rated enclosure for connections outdoors, in a garage or in an unheated space.
AS/NZS 3000 · Pick the IP rating for the position, keep the box accessible, and make sure the glands suit the cable actually used.
Conduit / cable containment
Conduit, trunking or ducting protecting cables in walls, floors and ceilings.
AS/NZS 3000 · AS/NZS 3000 sets mechanical protection requirements for cables concealed in walls, floors and ceiling spaces, and for cables in roof spaces that can be walked on (clause 3.9). Plan the routes with your electrician.
Tip · Always lay one or two spare empty conduits toward the roof space and garage: pulling a future cable will cost no wall chasing.
Earth electrode
Rod providing a connection to the general mass of earth.
AS/NZS 3000 · In the MEN system used in Australia and New Zealand, the main earthing conductor connects to an earth electrode, and its location is labelled at the main switchboard (section 5).
Tip · In new builds, a foundation earth loop (bare 25 mm² copper in the footings) gives far better earthing than a rod — and is nearly free at that stage.
Equipotential bonding
Bonding conductors between exposed and extraneous conductive parts, typically in a bathroom or around a pool.
AS/NZS 3000 · AS/NZS 3000 sets equipotential bonding for showers, bathrooms, pools and spas (clause 5.6), including conductive reinforcing in floors. Your electrician confirms what applies to the actual construction.
Electrical distribution
Main switchboard, distribution boards, metering and protective devices: distribution is the heart of the installation. In a home, no more than three circuits per RCD and at least two RCDs — plan the modules they take, plus spare ways.
Switchboard
The board holding the main switch, the RCDs and circuit breakers, and the MEN link. Every final subcircuit originates here.
AS/NZS 3000 · The main switch must be clearly and durably marked so anyone can isolate the installation (clause 2.3.3). In a home, no more than three circuits per RCD and at least two RCDs (clause 2.6.2.4).
Tip · Leave spare ways for solar, a battery or an EV charger — without them, adding a circuit later can force a new switchboard.
Data cabinet / patch position
Central position where structured cabling terminates — patch panel, switch, router.
AS/NZS 3000 · Not a regulatory requirement, but everything works better with one: put it where the incoming broadband lands, and plan a power point and ventilation for the equipment.
Tip · Pick a 2-row cabinet minimum: between the router, switch, fibre terminal and a future NAS, a 1-row cabinet is full on move-in day.
Distribution board
Secondary board serving a garage, outbuilding, granny flat or extension.
AS/NZS 3000 · Fed by a submain sized for the load and protected at its origin. A board in a detached outbuilding needs its own main switch so it can be isolated locally.
Tip · Worth it as soon as the served area is more than 15-20 m from the main switchboard or has more than 4 circuits.
Smart meter
The metering provider’s meter.
AS/NZS 3000 · The meter is not part of the installation you design, but its position sets the consumer mains route and therefore where the main switchboard can reasonably go.
Tip · Leave a route between the meter position and the switchboard for control cabling: load management for an EV charger needs a current transformer on the incoming supply.
Service protection device
Where the supply enters the property: the distributor’s service protection device and the consumer mains.
AS/NZS 3000 · The service protection device belongs to the distributor and is not for the installer to work on; in New South Wales, for example, it sits on the line side of the metering and is labelled for authorised persons. Isolation for the installation is the main switch.
Surge protective device (SPD)
Device limiting transient overvoltages, fitted in the switchboard and taking up modules.
AS/NZS 3000 · AS/NZS 3000 covers overvoltage protection where it is installed (clause 2.7). Allow for the modules it occupies when sizing the switchboard.
Tip · Given the cost of electronics in a modern home (heat pump, inverter, smart home), a surge protector is cheap insurance.
Off-peak contactor
Contactor switching a load such as a cylinder or storage heaters onto an off-peak period.
Tip · I-AUTO-0 positions: leave it on AUTO. Position I (forced on) is only for an occasional daytime reheat.
Meter and switchboard position
The technical position grouping the meter, the main switchboard and the data cabinet.
Tip · Grouping them keeps the consumer mains short and the documentation in one place. Leave clear access in front of it: it is the one part of the installation people need to reach in a hurry.
Data & communications
Nothing in the Wiring Rules requires structured cabling, but it is far cheaper to pull at rough-in than to retrofit. Plan an outlet per TV position, per desk and per wireless access point, all terminating at one patch position near where the broadband lands.
Data outlet (RJ45)
Structured cabling outlet for wired networking, back to a central patch position.
AS/NZS 3000 · The Wiring Rules do not require data outlets, but running Cat 6 at rough-in costs a fraction of retrofitting it. Plan one per TV position, per desk and per wireless access point.
Tip · Pull 2 RJ45s to each TV/desk location: one for the device, one for a future box (NAS, console, Wi-Fi AP).
TV aerial outlet
Coaxial outlet for terrestrial television.
Tip · In new builds, plan a TV outlet in every room where a TV could go: even if you don't pull the coax immediately, lay an empty conduit for later.
Satellite outlet
Coaxial outlet for a satellite feed, often paired with the TV aerial outlet.
Router / patch panel
Broadband router and network switch position, usually inside or beside the data cabinet.
Tip · Plan at least two power points here — router plus switch — and make sure the enclosure is ventilated. Network kit runs warm and throttles in a sealed cupboard.
Optical network terminal (ONT)
Where a full-fibre service terminates inside the property. The router connects to it.
Tip · Fix its position early with the network provider. Moving it afterwards usually means a new fibre pull, not a patch lead.
Wireless access point
Ceiling or wall access point fed by structured cabling, typically powered over Ethernet.
Tip · One ceiling PoE access point at the center of each floor beats three repeaters: pull RJ45 runs to the ceilings at the planning stage.
Heating & cooling
Heating and cooling units need a dedicated circuit sized on their rating, and systems with a compressor need a lockable isolating switch beside the unit (clause 4.19).
Electric heater
Fixed electric heater — panel or fan type.
AS/NZS 3000 · Fixed room heaters need an isolating switch and a functional switch in or next to the room (clause 4.9), and are supplied from a circuit sized on their rating.
Convector heater
Fixed convector, supplied and controlled like any other fixed electric heater.
Underfloor heating
Electric underfloor heating mat or cable, with its thermostat and floor sensor.
AS/NZS 3000 · Heating cables need RCD protection, an isolating switch and warning signs (clause 4.10). Mark the thermostat and the floor sensor position on the plan — the sensor sits between heating runs, not over them.
Heated towel rail
Electric heated towel rail in a bathroom.
AS/NZS 3000 · Its position relative to the bathroom zones sets the IP rating and where its switch may go. Keep the control outside the zones.
Heat pump / air-conditioning (outdoor unit)
Outdoor unit of a heat pump or split air conditioner, with its supply, isolator and control cabling.
AS/NZS 3000 · A dedicated circuit with a lockable isolating switch beside the unit, not on it, isolating the whole system (clause 4.19). Where indoor units are supplied separately, they need their own isolator and a warning sign.
Tip · Plan 1 m of clear space in front of the unit for maintenance, and keep it away from bedroom windows and neighbours for noise.
Air conditioning (indoor unit)
Indoor unit of a split system, with its supply and the interconnect to the outdoor unit.
Ventilation
Ventilation of wet rooms is set by building regulations rather than the Wiring Rules. On the plan, distinguish the central unit from the extract terminals in each wet room and the air inlets in the dry rooms.
Mechanical extract ventilation unit
Central continuous extract fan serving the wet rooms, with ducting to each extract terminal.
AS/NZS 3000 · Ventilation rates are set by building regulations (the NCC in Australia, Building Code clause G4 in New Zealand), not by the Wiring Rules. Supply it from its own circuit and note the boost control position on the plan.
Tip · Hang the unit from anti-vibration straps rather than resting it on the ceiling joists — it halves transmitted noise.
Heat recovery ventilation unit
Balanced ventilation with heat recovery: supply and extract through a heat exchanger.
AS/NZS 3000 · Needs its own circuit and a condensate drain, and the ducts must be insulated wherever they run outside the insulated envelope.
Tip · Place the unit as close to the centre of the duct network as possible: every metre of duct saved means more efficiency and less noise.
Humidity-controlled extract unit
Extract ventilation modulating its rate with the humidity in each wet room.
AS/NZS 3000 · Ventilation rates are set by building regulations, not the Wiring Rules. Whichever system is chosen, keep the commissioned airflow figures with the handover documents.
Tip · Humidity-sensing terminals can usually be swapped without touching the central unit, so an existing extract system can be upgraded room by room.
Extract terminal
Wet-room terminal where the ventilation system draws air out.
Tip · In the kitchen, keep the grille away from the cooktop: it would suck in grease and foul the ducts — that's the hood's job, not the VMC's.
Trickle vent / air inlet
Background ventilation opening in a dry room, letting replacement air in.
AS/NZS 3000 · Needed with an extract-only system so there is a path for replacement air; not used with a balanced heat recovery system, which supplies its own.
Tip · Order windows with the inlet slots factory-made — drilling them after installation is a nightmare.
Exhaust fan
Individual room exhaust fan in a bathroom, toilet, laundry or kitchen.
AS/NZS 3000 · Where it serves a bathroom, its position relative to the zones sets the IP rating; ducting it outside, not just into the roof space, avoids moisture problems.
Tip · Choose a model with a backdraft damper and run-on timer: triggered with the light, it keeps running 5-10 minutes after switch-off.
Safety & access control
Smoke alarms follow building regulations and AS 3786 — check the positions required where you live. Alarms, CCTV and intercoms are optional, but planning them now avoids cutting into finished walls later.
Smoke alarm
Mains-powered smoke alarm with battery backup, interlinked with the others in the home.
AS/NZS 3000 · Smoke alarms are set by building regulations and AS 3786 rather than the Wiring Rules — in Australia through the NCC and state rules, in New Zealand through the Building Code and tenancy rules. Check the positions required where you live.
Carbon monoxide alarm
CO alarm, required where there is a fixed combustion appliance.
Tip · Place it in the same room as the appliance, at the height the manufacturer specifies. A CO alarm is not a substitute for a smoke alarm.
Motion detector
PIR detector for security or automatic lighting.
Tip · Pair with LED lighting: instant on, adjustable duration. Avoid IR-only sensors indoors — they miss slow movements.
CCTV camera
Surveillance camera position, with its cable route back to the recorder or PoE switch.
Tip · Note the connection type on the plan: PoE (single RJ45 for power + video) or separate 12V supply.
Alarm panel / sounder
Intruder alarm panel or external sounder, with its supply and detector cabling.
Emergency light
Self-contained emergency luminaire with an integral battery.
AS/NZS 3000 · Not required in a single dwelling, but useful in a windowless basement, a long internal corridor or a plant room.
Door entry / video intercom
Indoor station of a door entry system, with the cable route to the entrance panel.
Tip · Prefer a Wi-Fi-connected video doorbell — lets you answer from your phone when you're not home.
Video doorbell
Doorbell with a camera, wired or battery, with its chime and supply.
Tip · Plan wired power on the drawing (2 × 0.75 mm² low-voltage or per model): no more bimonthly battery charging.
Door entry panel
Entrance panel of a door entry system, with the cable route to the indoor station.
Tip · Pull the containment between the panel and the indoor station at first fix, sized for the technology you may end up with, not only the one you have chosen today.
Motorized access & openings
Motorized shutters, gates, and garage doors each need a dedicated supply and a control point. Planning them on the drawing avoids surface conduits and makeshift extensions.
Motorised roller shutter
Motorised shutter or blind, with its supply and control point.
Tip · Plan centralized wiring (one control point per floor) if you may add smart home control later. Best: radio motor compatible with KNX, Somfy io, or Zigbee.
Gate motor
Motorised gate operator with its supply, safety devices and controls.
AS/NZS 3000 · Use the manufacturer’s safety devices — force limitation, photocells — and a buried supply with the depth and protection the Wiring Rules require for its type.
Tip · Bury three conduits to the gate during construction: power, intercom and one spare. A few dollars of conduit versus digging a new trench.
Garage door motor
Motorised garage door operator, with a power point at ceiling level.
Tip · Add a wired control by the internal door in addition to the remote: batteries have a knack for dying on rainy days.
Smart home
Smart home elements enable centralized control of heating, blinds, and lighting. They typically require a wired bus (KNX), a wireless module (Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter), or a micromodule behind existing switchgear.
Thermostat
Room thermostat or programmer controlling heating.
Tip · Keep it away from direct sun, draughts and heat sources, or it will control the room to the wrong temperature all year.
Smart home module
Relay module behind an accessory, or a bus device, bringing a circuit under smart control.
Tip · Choose a long-lasting protocol: KNX (pro wired), Z-Wave / Zigbee (wireless, open) or Matter (2025+ standard).
Energy & production
Solar generation, storage, and EV charging transform home energy use. These systems require dedicated circuits, protections suited to their electronics, and sometimes a grid-operator procedure.
EV charger
Wall-mounted or pedestal charger beside the parking position, with its dedicated supply.
AS/NZS 3000 · AS/NZS 3000 clause 7.9 applies in New Zealand: MEN supply, a dedicated circuit of at least 32 A for a single-phase wallbox, a 30 mA Type B RCD switching active and neutral, a 32 A isolating switch and the outlet at least 800 mm above the floor.
Tip · The generator’s suggested cable size must still be confirmed against route length, voltage drop, installation method and charger instructions.
EV charging socket-outlet (slow charge)
A weatherproof socket-outlet dedicated to slow charging with the car’s portable cable, modelled at up to 3.7 kW in Planelico.
AS/NZS 3000 · In New Zealand, clause 7.9.3.3 applies: a dedicated circuit of at least 20 A, a 30 mA Type B RCD switching active and neutral, and the socket-outlet at least 800 mm above the floor. Socket-outlets must not be installed for Mode 1 charging.
Tip · Actual charging power depends on both the socket-outlet and the portable cable. Check the ratings of both before assuming an overnight charge will complete.
Solar PV array
Photovoltaic modules on the roof or ground. On the electrical plan, show the array, the DC route, the inverter and the isolation enclosures.
AS/NZS 3000 · Isolation is needed on both the DC and the AC side, the inverter must suit AS/NZS 4777, and the connection must be approved by your distributor before it is energised.
Tip · For self-consumption, size the array against your daytime load rather than the available roof area — exported energy is usually worth far less than what you use.
Solar inverter
Inverter converting the array\u2019s DC output to AC, with its isolators and generation meter.
Tip · Alternative: micro-inverters under each panel — pricier, but per-panel optimization and no single point of failure.
Home battery
Battery storage unit with its inverter and isolation.
Tip · Position matters more than people expect: weight, ventilation, temperature range and access for maintenance all constrain where it can go.
Water & technical equipment
Water heaters, pumps and pool equipment appear on the plan for their supplies: dedicated circuits, RCD protection, local isolation, and the bonding that applies in wet areas and around pools.
Electric water heater
Supply for an electric storage water heater.
AS/NZS 3000 · A dedicated circuit and a lockable isolating switch beside the heater, not on it (clause 4.8.2.3). Where an off-peak or controlled-load tariff is used, the control arrangement belongs on the plan too.
Heat pump water heater
Hot water storage with an integral heat pump.
AS/NZS 3000 · A dedicated circuit and a lockable isolating switch beside it (clause 4.8.2.3), or a readily accessible power point beside the unit where it plugs in. Plan the condensate drain with it.
Tip · The ambient-air version cools the space it sits in: ideal outdoors, in a garage or laundry, less so next to a living room.
Pump-out / sump pump
Pump lifting waste water where gravity drainage is not possible.
AS/NZS 3000 · Dedicated circuit. Circuits supplying power points need 30 mA RCD protection in a home (clause 2.6.3.3.1). On anything critical, plan a high-level alarm and decide now where its indicator goes.
Tip · Add a power-failure detector or connected alarm: a failed pump is always discovered too late.
Pool filtration pump
Filtration pump and its supply, near the pool equipment area.
AS/NZS 3000 · Section 6 of AS/NZS 3000 sets the zones around pools and spas and what may be installed in each, and pools need equipotential bonding (clause 5.6). Pool lighting in the zones runs at extra-low voltage.
Tip · Filtration rule of thumb: water temperature ÷ 2 = filtration hours per day. Size the timer and contactor accordingly.
Outdoor
Outdoor equipment needs an IP rating suited to its exposure — IP33 at least where exposed to the weather — and RCD protection. Buried supplies need the depth and protection required for their type, with the route marked on the plan.
Outdoor power point
Weatherproof power point on an external wall, in a garage or under an alfresco roof.
AS/NZS 3000 · IP33 at least where it is exposed to the weather (clause 4.1.3). Circuits supplying power points need 30 mA RCD protection in a home (clause 2.6.3.3.1). Mount it clear of the ground so run-off and splash cannot sit against the enclosure.
Outdoor light
External wall light, floodlight or soffit light, with its switching or PIR control.
Tip · Use a motion + dusk sensor for outdoor lights: efficient and useful.
Garden bollard light
Low-level garden light on a buried supply.
AS/NZS 3000 · A buried cable needs the depth and mechanical protection the Wiring Rules require for its type — enclosed in conduit or armoured — and its route should be marked on the plan.
Tip · Wire bollards on a dedicated outdoor lighting circuit with the switch indoors, and keep the route clear of future digging.
Using these symbols in Planelico
Planelico includes 370+ symbols in a drag-and-drop library. To annotate your electrical plan:
- Import your PDF plan (architect’s or builder’s drawing, or a real-estate plan)
- Browse the library in the left panel, grouped by category
- Drag each symbol to its exact location on the plan
- Add notes on each element (circuit, reference, remark)
- Draw connections between switches and light points
- Export the annotated plan as a PDF with auto-generated legend
FAQ — Electrical symbols
What is the floor outlet / floor box symbol?
Which symbol represents a hard-wired appliance?
Will an electrician in New Zealand read these symbols?
Are electrical symbols standardised internationally?
What is the difference between a symbol and a legend on an electrical plan?
How do I show wiring connections between switches and lights?
What does an IP rating mean on some symbols?
What is the standard mounting height for a light switch?
How many power points should each room have?
Can I customise symbols or add new ones?
Is the legend included in the PDF export?
Related guides
Create your electrical plan now
Planelico lets you create a professional electrical plan in minutes. Free, no installation.